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Photo VIR |
A small memorial and cultural site in Hanoi dedicated to one of Vietnam’s greatest heroes is well worth a look, says Shaun Kawasaki.
Western readers will recognise the maxim attributed to Robin Hood of Nottingham in England “rob from the rich, give to the poor” but in Vietnam these were pretty much the same words that garnered support for the Tay Son rebels, who sparked a peasant rebellion that ultimately unified and liberated Vietnam in the late 18th century.
Born in Binh Dinh province in 1753, Nguyen Hue, later to be renamed Quang Trung, was the middle brother of three. Well versed in literature, history and the military arts, the three brothers first looked to overthrow a local official, who answered to the Nguyen lords, the dominant rulers of Vietnam at that time, in 1771. The insurrection continued.
By 1776 the Tay Son rebels had occupied all of the Nguyen Lords’ land and Nguyen Phuc Anh fled to Siam. Undefeated in battle, Quang Trung not only unified Vietnam by defeating the various rival Viet factions but he also audaciously attacked and defeated the Chinese invaders who had taken control of Thang Long (Hanoi). For this feat Quang Trung is regarded as one of Vietnam’s greatest national heroes. With 10,000 men he led a surprise attack during the Lunar New Year in what could be described as the first Tet offensive.
As the Chinese soldiers had successfully overpowered the weak Viet forces left to defend the north, their generals had allowed them to celebrate the Lunar New Year festival. Quang Trung came all the way from Hue. Aware that a lightening speed attack could catch the invaders off guard during the festival, he is said to have marched without stopping.
His troops used 3,000 stretchers to take turns sleeping while still gaining ground. They covered hundreds of miles in this novel manner. After capturing numerous enemy soldiers, inebriated with a skin full of celebratory wine, and donning their uniforms, the special forces of the Tay Son army infiltrated the Chinese camp and reeked more havoc. Huge wooden shields covered with bales of straw protected the soldiers.
Chaos ensued. The careless Chinese soldiers sobered up quickly but the surprise attack was successful and the Vietnamese won the day. The retreating Chinese generals overloaded one of the bridges and it collapsed. Without leaders the remnants of the Chinese army capitulated.
Legend has it a large heap of bodies left behind on the battle field became Dong Da Mound, found at the bottom of Tay Son Street in Hanoi. Today the hill and forest is a peaceful spot and well worth investigating (past the children’s play areas and restaurants).
Further along the park, or by entering from Dang Tien Dong Street, you will find a 100-square metre display area. The traditional sickle shaped spears guard the entrance and two statues – Quang Trung and his trusted Commander Long – bid you enter. Displayed around the perimeter are artifacts representing Quang Trung’s life. A set of gongs from his highland birthplace, photos of his shrine, a family tree and weapons.
The sword of the female general, Bui Thi Xuan, and decrees with the royal stamps grace the cabinets to the right. The pride of place is the central maquette with a depiction of the famous battle. Every year on the fifth day of the Lunar New Year, a celebration is held with numerous activities including a small re-enactment of the battle at Dong Da. Quang Trung had great plans for reforming Vietnam but sadly he died in 1792 at the relatively young age of 40. After his death the Tay Son dynasty quickly crumbled.
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