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Life in Quy Nhon revolves around the ocean. |
After a long, long drive from Hanoi, I arrive in Binh Dinh province at 4am. I struggle to open my eyes at first but soon I feast them on the spectacular view of the seashore at Queen's Beach, where the royal family once bathed. We are on our way to Quy Nhon, one of Vietnam's many sleeping beauties, a destination often skipped by tourists as they bounce up or down the coast from Nha Trang to Hoi An or Hue.
But I have been reliably informed of Binh Dinh and Quy Nhon's beguiling charms – traditional architecture, a stunning rugged coastline, hidden coves and deserted beaches, peace, tranquillity, Hindu temples and much more.
Without a developed tourism sector, compared to other coastal areas in Vietnam, Quy Nhon retains an air of mystery and pure, poetic grace.
On our first evening we dine at a restaurant on a hill by the shore. There's a beautiful full moon in the sky, reflecting off the surface of the sea. In the distance we can see Quy Nhon city and the glimmer of a sandy beach below.
The city's history can be traced back to the 11th century, when this area was part of the Kingdom of Champa. To offer visitors a taste of its heritage, the restaurant hosts some traditional Cham dancers, who wow the audience after a delicious dinner of traditional foods.
Afterwards, many people in our group are sleepy, or maybe just lazy, and they opt to take a van back to the hotel which is 2km away. But I've had enough of driving, and so I set off on foot to get a feel for this romantic city, which was home to the famous poet Han Mac Tu, a true romantic who is well-regarded for his lovelorn poetry, but was also a modernist and an innovator who fused classical traditions with more avant-garde styles.
As I wander toward my hotel, I met two young locals carrying a large sack, which at first I presume contains seafood. In fact, it's filled with garbage which they collected on the beach in a bid to help keep the local environment clean. There's a surprising motive for this initiative. They often choose to sleep on the beach.
“Our house is opposite the beach but we don't like being cooped up in the house. We can get more fresh air and wind on the beach,” says one.
What about mosquitoes? “It's too windy for mosquitoes,” says the other.
Quy Nhon is that kind of laid back place. The cost of living here is cheap and the lifestyle is easy. When I wake in the morning the first thing I have on my mind is a dip in the water. I walk alongside the lapping waves, stopping to drink sugarcane and coconut juice and enjoying the views.
According to local sources there are 14 Cham towers and monuments in varying stages of decay around Binh Dinh province, but the most accessible are not far from Quy Nhon city centre.
The Thap Doi Cham Towers are surrounded by buildings, which diminished their impact somewhat, but they are fine examples of Cham architectural craftsmanship and most certainly add another layer of mystery and wonder to this enviable destination, which is a welcome relief in the middle of the long, hot Hanoi summer.
As one hotel guests remarked, “Quy Nhon is like a peaceful wife, while Hanoi is like an angry husband.”
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